The most important wine association in Spain is a very exclusive singles scene. Grandes Pagos de España is a private group of 34 wineries that share a passion for single vineyard winemaking. Drawn from the varied geography and culture of Spain, the members are united behind a singular cause: to express the personality of each vineyard, climate and grape through their wines. Bridget Jones would approve.
Last year, I traveled to the island of Mallorca to attend the annual symposium of Grandes Pagos. The warmth of the sun and azure waters were enchanting, but our group was here to unlock the undecipherable mystery of the land. We were hosted by Bodega Ribas, one of the youngest members of Grandes Pagos and the oldest winery on Mallorca. Established in 1711, Ribas has been owned by the same family for 13 generations. Sister and brother Araceli and Javier Servera Ribas run the winery today, and while they draw inspiration from the past, their approach is decidedly forward-thinking. A central theme for the conference was climate change, a sovereign issue around the wine world. Anyone standing still and rooted in the past does so at their own peril.
Single vineyard winemaking is a very particular concept in wine. All the grapes come from the same designated growing site, and by nature, share the same specific environmental conditions. Vineyard-specificity is the holy grail for winegrowers looking to make wines that express terroir—the combination of shared factors like climate, soil and elevation that contribute to unique character. The terms cru , payment and estate all describe these special places and imply more: namely, a recognition of great winemaking potential, which is often enshrined in appellation law. Bordeaux introduced the first Grand Cru Classé model in 1855 to classify the best 60 vineyards of the Left Bank, each ranked for quality and pricing from First Growth to Fifth Growth.
Remarkably, this prestige classification system still stands today, as do the original first-growth châteaux; Latour, Lafite Rothschild, Margaux, Haut Brion and Mouton Rothschild come from the finest terroirs and are some of the most expensive wines in the world.
Spain’s Grand Cru movement took longer to come together and, initially, sought to address some of the oversights in the country’s modern appellation system. “In the beginning, we were five wineries that were recognized for great quality from our regions, but we weren’t located within any particular appellation,” recalls Adolfo Hornos at Vallegarcía, a 100-acre estate in Montes Toledo known for its elegant blends with Bordeaux varieties. Under Spanish appellation law, Vallegarcía was making grand cru-level wine in an area akin to no-man’s-land that had to be classified as table wine. In 2000, Vallegarcía was one of five wineries (together with Marqués de Griñón, Pagos de Familia, Finca Élez, Calzadilla and Dehesa del Carrizal) to form a private organization known as Grandes Pagos de Castilla that mobilized regulators to change the law of the land . In 2003, Spain introduced the Vino de Pago DOP, an official single vineyard that now includes 23 wineries. Meanwhile, the original Grandes Pagos de Castilla expanded with renewed vigor as Grandes Pagos de España to take on new members nationwide.
“Not every Vino de Pago is a member of Grandes Pagos and vice versa,” explains Grandes Pagos president and winery owner María del Yerro of Alonso del Yerro. What matters most is a track record of success in making quality single vineyard wines. Founded in 2002, Alonso del Yerro lies within the famed DO Ribera del Duero region in northern Spain and is known for expressive Tempranillo-based reds. The winery earned Grandes Pagos membership in 2009; it took many years, and del Yerro recalls the process as “intensely rigorous.” Its top cuvée is appropriately named “María”; made only in the best vintages from two distinct parcels, María is an elegant wine, graceful and silky, with bold fruit that lingers on the palate. It’s a star of the Spanish wine scene but also shows restraint, letting the character of the vineyard shine in every vintage.
To be eligible, wines must come from an exceptional estate and single vineyard, have a track record of industry recognition for at least five years, and receive the highest ratings from established wine critics and competitions. Del Yerro became the first woman president of Grandes Pagos in 2023, and she is proud to have inducted two new wineries, Losada Vinos de Finca and Alta Alella. She hopes to add more but truly acknowledges that standards must be met for everyone to stay on board. Membership is not a lifetime guarantee; wineries are subject to continuing assessment by an independent tasting committee and can be asked to leave.
At the meeting in Mallorca, the benefits of keeping membership in good standing were on full display. The technicians who work the vineyards and cellars mingle with ownership and export managers in an energetic and friendly exchange of ideas. During the breaks, Bodega Ribas generously shared its wines, including beautifully aromatic reds made from the Mantonegro grape, a native of the island. On the agenda were tough questions about protecting Spain’s heirloom grapes and confronting the challenge of climate change with sustainability in mind. The voices around the room offered insights from Green Spain, Meseta North, Ebro River Valley, Meseta Central, Catalonia, the Mediterranean, the South and the Islands. Grandes Pagos members are innovators in biodynamic and organic production and collectively work with an astounding 60 grape varieties, 28 reds and 32 whites. Toni Sarrión, the winemaker for Bodega Mustiguillo, a family property in the Valencian highlands of southern Spain, reminded the audience that respect for the land and local culture had to come first; Mustiguillo is actively preserving native varieties such as Bobal and Merseguera, grapes that are a delicious complement to Mediterranean culture and well adapted to climate change. Biodiversity, everyone agreed, was a shared value.
Passion for the vineyard and a keenness to let nature come through in the wines is also a common denominator, even when nature has the upper hand. Located in the Priorat region in the southwest hills of Barcelona, Mas Doix joined Grandes Pagos in 2010, just as the organization was starting to expand beyond its original membership in Castilla. Known for its steep terraced vineyards and slate “licorella” soils, Priorat is a top destination for complex Spanish reds of intense minerality. Defined by contrasting soil patterns, dizzying elevation gains and back-breaking labor, it’s a complicated place to make wine. Unphased by the caprices of nature, Mas Doix co-founders Valentí and Ramon Llagostera produces spectacular old-vine Garnacha and Carignan and rely on organic viticulture to get to know the nuances of each plot. “We can talk about a hill that is straight and full of twisted old vines, terraces of Carignan that look up at the sun, or a Grenache on a gentle slope overlooking the Siurana River,” share the founders. “Our goal is to help each vineyard to express its own character, first by getting to know the vines as best we can and then by promoting their virtues.” It’s this desire to place quality and terroir first that drew Mas Doix to Grandes Pagos.
Mustiguillo Finca Calvestra 2022, Valencia
($39)
Made from 100% Merseguera, a native white grape from the Mediterranean coast brought back from the brink of extinction. Aromas of citrus, honey and white fruit.
The rich palate is balanced with refreshing acidity.
Mas Doix Salanques 2021, Catalonia
($45)
70% Grenache, 20% Cariñena and 10% Syrah. Aromas of rich, spiced red fruit with graphite and ink mineral notes that echo the renowned slate soils and steep hillsides of the Priorat area.
Retuerta Abbey Pago Negralada 2018, Duero Valley
($100)
100% Tempranillo from the deep gravel soils of the Negralada plot. Black fruit, bay leaf and fresh tea aromas. Bold yet refreshing to taste with smooth tannins.
Being a champion of Spanish terroir has defined pago culture from the outset. Like the first growths of Bordeaux, there is also room for delivering luxury and high-end hospitality while tending to the vines. Just two hours north of Madrid, Abadía Retuerta is an award-winning winery in the Duero Valley with 500 acres of high-elevation vineyards surrounded by old-growth forests. Like Vallegarcía, the winery lies beyond traditional appellation boundaries and actively pursued membership in Grandes Pagos in 2010 to elevate awareness of its single vineyard wines. Situated in a 12th-century abbey, Abadía Retuerta is home to LeDomaine, a five-star hotel and wellness center ranked among the top wine destinations in the world. Refectorio, the abbey’s original dining hall, is a Michelin-starred restaurant focused on creative wine pairings and local cuisine. Guests can also opt for curated vinotherapy treatments designed by Spain’s first “spa sommeliers” and tour the estate by electric bike and hot air balloon.
Founded on a profound respect for terroir, Abadía Retuerta just relaunched four of its limited edition pago wines in the US market to keep up with demand. Wine consultant Pascal Delbeck and winemaker Ángel Anocíbar have isolated key aromatics such as balsamic, pine and herbs in 54 distinct sites that echo their natural surroundings. Climate and soil studies reveal a stunning diversity of microclimates and soils to support an extensive range of varietals, including Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot and other experimental white varieties. For Delbeck and Anocíbar, the exquisite variation of their terrain is the ultimate luxury, a legacy to preserve for the ages.
On our last day in Mallorca, we sat family-style by the sea to ponder the future over a coal-fired paella. Everywhere on the island there are glorious views of green pines, craggy ranges and the Mediterranean Sea. And, of course, there are the heirloom vines of Mallorca, so worthy of contemplation in this magical place. Maria del Yerro predicts a bright path forward for Grandes Pagos and plans to spread the word through programs like The Terroir Workshop, a worldwide education platform that just launched in the United States. The diversity of Grandes Pagos allows for immersion into the whole of Spanish wine culture, including all the most important wine regions and up-and-coming areas. As appreciation of Spain builds, wine lovers are curious to learn more about the history, people and places behind each label. Spanish-born Monica Marin, one of the first wine experts to lead a terroir workshop in the United States, is convinced that education is the gateway to a new era for Spain’s pago wines. “Americans embrace the Grand Cru concept, especially because the single vineyard winemaking movement has really taken hold in Napa,” Marin explains. “They understand that it means top-notch quality and a commitment to excellence and terroir.”
In the end, it’s this shared vision of excellence that fills del Yerro and his fellow members with optimism: Single vineyard and Spanish to the core, Grandes Pagos wines are the ultimate test of character from the country’s best vines. *
Helen Gregory has been writing about the good life for over 20 years. Fluent in four languages, she has lived in Italy, India, France, Morocco and South America, and derives inspiration from her love of travel and the many people she has met along the way. An accomplished business owner, Helen shares her life with her husband, Brian, three kids and two dogs.
