Wine

A Love Letter

by Helen Gregory

@icex/ Copyright ICEX / Depto. Multimedia
Caroline Fiss Photography for ICEX/ Trade Commission of Spain New York
@icex/ Copyright ICEX / Depto. Multimedia

LMERCADO LITTLE SPAIN—a gourmet marketplace and all-day dining experience located in the heart of New York City’s Hudson Yards—describes itself as “a love letter to Spain.” It’s a vison of gastronomic alegría brought to life by culinary superstar José Andres in creative collaboration with fellow Spanish chefs Ferran and Albert Adrià. From the moment you walk in—whether for a quick tapas bite or a sit-down meal—you’re transported to the world of Spanish food and drinks from every corner of the country.

This fall, Mercado Little Spain hosted the 31st anniversary of Spain’s Great Match, one of the longest-running trade events in the United States, and the Spanish government’s own love letter to a rich gastronomic heritage supported each year by over 50 regional purveyors.

There is no single food or wine that defines Spain. It’s not paella, tapas, Rioja or Sherry—though each is a paragon of gastronomy. The secret to Spanish cuisine lies in an incredible mosaic of flavors and dishes, cultivated over centuries and best understood through its regions. Climate and geography have carved this relatively small land—roughly the size of Texas—into a remarkably varied landscape rich in distinctive ingredients. Bordered by miles of sea and ocean, from the sun-warmed Mediterranean to the cool Atlantic, Spain is also one of Europe’s most mountainous countries, boasting the second-largest forested area on the continent. Spain is a nation of countless microclimates and timeless traditions, a land where ancient roots still shape layers of history, culture and flavor. From the misty valleys of Galicia to the rugged coastlines of the Basque Country and the sun-drenched olive groves of Andalucía to the vast plateaus of Castilla y León and the creative pulse of Catalunya, every region tells its own story.

“We’re really just starting to appreciate the sheer scope of what Spain has to offer,” shares Jeffrey Shaw, director of Foods from Spain. Case in point, at Spain’s Great Match, Shaw helped organize a tasting of the grand cru olive oils of Spain, each sourced from a single estate and considered the most premium extra virgin production on the market today. “In the wine world we’re well trained to understand single origin quality, but we have that in olive oil as well,” Shaw explains. “These olive oils are next level, as expressive of terroir as the finest wines.” Next level is also a good way to describe the jamón iberico presented at Spain’s Great Match by the region of Castilla y León. Sourced from the vast interior of Spain, jamón iberico comes from a rare breed of pig—the pata negra or black-footed species that roam free in vast oak forests and feast on acorns before making the ultimate sacrifice. At the Great Match, a specially trained cortador (or cutter) expertly sliced small ruby red rectangles of jamón iberico, glistening with just the right amount of fat to melt in your mouth with a buttery, rich goodness.

For Shaw, great Spanish food is often rooted in simplicity—preparations that highlight the authenticity and true flavors of locally sourced ingredients, such as olives, jamón, cheeses, pimentón and piquillo peppers. “At its finest, great Spanish jamón requires little more than salt, time and patience,” he notes. “These products from the land and sea rely on artisanal techniques passed down through generations; they feel on trend, yet their roots run deep, perfectly aligning with today’s preference for artisanal and unprocessed foods.” Spanish seafood also took center stage at the Great Match, featuring a current favorite among food lovers: tinned fish. Spain’s canning tradition, which dates to the 19th century, is being reimagined for gourmet palates with vibrant packaging and many flavor offerings. What was once a humble pantry staple has become a symbol of Spain’s ability to blend heritage with innovation—proof that the simplest ingredients, treated with respect and care, can achieve timeless appeal.

Spain arrived late to the modern global table. The country emerged from post-war poverty and the Franco years with some catching up to do. Spanish chefs and restaurateurs were among the first to highlight the flavors of home in food, wines and spirits. They were joined by some very enterprising Americans, like Air Force veteran Don Harris, the founder of La Tienda, an e-commerce marketplace with a storefront in Williamsburg, Virginia, and legions of fans. Harris first discovered Spain in 1965 while serving as a U.S. Navy chaplain in Valencia. It was love at first sight. Eight years later, he moved his family to El Puerto de Santa María, settling among the sherry bodegas and finding a lifelong passion for Spanish culture. When he returned to Virginia, Harris sought to bridge his two worlds, and La Tienda was born. His sons, Tim and Jonathan Harris, both lived and studied in Spain and have managed the company since the beginning, along with their mother, Ruth, and younger brother, Chris, also co-owners. It’s a true family venture dedicated to artisanal Spanish foods.

“Thirty years ago, Spain was the last undiscovered cuisine in Europe,” reflects Tim Harris. The landscape has changed dramatically since then, driven by cultural moments like the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, the rise of soccer and waves of tourism that have propelled Spain into the limelight. What began as an underdog story for early Spanish importers has evolved into a cultural triumph, one that celebrates craftsmanship and honors pioneers like La Tienda, Despaña Brand Foods and Mercado Little Spain, all heralded by the Spanish government for their role in raising awareness of the nation’s culinary bounty.

For every great Spanish dish there are 10 wines to wash it down. Spain has more land dedicated to vineyards than any other country and most of the grapes are native varieties. It’s no wonder that Spanish wines are made to be shared at the table. The act of pairing food and wine—tapas style—is woven into the fabric of Spanish life and the Great Match. This year’s event opened with a masterclass led by Mark Guillaudeu, Master Sommelier at the Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, who guided guests through a deep dive into Cava. Crafted using the same traditional method as Champagne but often from indigenous grapes, Cava is now available in two new quality tiers: Cava de Guarda and Cava de Guarda Superior, governed by strict ageing standards. At the highest level, Cava de Guarda Superior must age at least 18 months on the lees and originate from designated high-quality vineyard sites. All the grapes used at this tier must be certified organic, a shift that has been met with enthusiasm from consumers and has instilled new confidence in the elevated future of
Cava wines.

Katrin Naelapaa, director of Wines from Spain, hopes attendees of Spain’s Great Match walk away with a sense of wonder and a desire to keep exploring. “Spanish wine is culture in a glass and so much more than a beverage; there’s a genuine connection to the many different wine-producing regions through wine. There really is a wine for every occasion,” she says. Spanish wines started to emerge in the mid-1990s with the introduction of regions like Cava, Rioja, Ribera del Duero and the Albariño white wines of Rías Baixas, challenging Americans to learn a whole new lexicon of regions and grape varieties. With access to increased investment and the latest technology, Naelapaa notes that Spain’s forward-thinking wineries have made impressive strides.

Today’s rising stars include grapes and areas that have long flown under the radar, like Campo de Borja in northeastern Aragón. The region’s calling card is Garnacha, the red grape that thrives in its windswept vineyards and stony soils, producing wines of generous fruit and surprising elegance. Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein made a compelling case for this land of ancient vines and extreme terroir at the Great Match, leading guests through an impressive range of Garnacha wines. Like Naelapaa, Goldstein and other educators find it remarkable that some of Spain’s most prominent grapes are still relatively unknown. Emerging stars like Bobal and Monastrell also made a statement. The most planted red grape in Spain, Bobal is native to the high plains of Utiel-Requena, and is winning hearts with its juicy red fruit, easygoing tannins and plush, velvety finish. Further south, in the sunbaked landscapes of Murcia and Alicante, Monastrell tells a different story: that of old vines, dry-farmed vineyards and wines that channel rugged terroir into polished, deeply expressive character. Together, these grapes speak to Spain’s viticultural diversity and its ongoing evolution.

Naelapaa has long supported the resurgence of Sherry, on the other end of Spain’s winemaking spectrum. Produced in the sun-drenched south around Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Sherry spans a remarkable range of styles: from the light, saline brightness of Fino and Manzanilla to the amber depths of Amontillado, the nutty complexity of Oloroso and Palo Cortado, and the raisiny sweetness of Pedro Ximénez (PX). Dating back to Roman times, Sherry is traditionally crafted through the solera system—a method of fractional blending that blends generations of wine to achieve consistency and depth—and then fortified with grape spirit to reach between 15% and 22% alcohol. But today, even this age-old process is being reimagined.

Cesar Saldaña, president of the Sherry Regulatory Council, led a dedicated seminar to unpack how this age-old system is being reimagined with novel approaches, like single vintage wines that bypass the solera process and additional fortification. The new rules of Sherry allow unfortified wines to be bottled as DO Sherry if they naturally ripen to 15% alcohol. Per Saldaña, it’s all part of a modern vibe in the Sherry region that invites expansive thinking. With so many styles to explore–Fino, Oloroso, Amontillado and now even still wines, Sherry can seem intimidating. But what once felt like an insider’s secret is now gaining momentum with next-generation drinkers. Bartenders are leading a quiet revolution, reintroducing the wine through a creative wave of Sherry-based cocktails that showcase its complexity and versatility. “It’s important to adapt with the times,” observes Naelapaa. “Adding a touch of Sherry brings depth, texture and a distinctly Spanish flair.”

This spirit of experimentation goes well beyond Sherry. Across Spain, a broader drinks renaissance is in full swing—one that celebrates artisanal vermouths, regional liqueurs and gins. Spaniards have embraced gin with such fervor that the country now ranks among the world’s top consumers. Spain’s leading drink is arguably the Gin Tónica, an ode to bespoke aromatics, garnishes and tonics served in a copa de balon or oversize, balloon-shaped wine glass that stimulates the senses with
each sip.

In Spain, even the simplest cocktail becomes a conversation—a reflection of place, craft and conviviality. Spain’s Great Match has carried that spirit across the Atlantic, inviting Americans to taste not just the country’s food and wine but its way of life. *

Helen Gregory has been writing about the good life for over 20 years. Fluent in four languages, she has lived in Italy, India, France, Morocco and South America, and derives inspiration from her love of travel and the many people she has met along the way. An accomplished business owner, Helen shares her life with her husband, Brian, three kids and two dogs.

Cheesemonger and Katrin Naelapaa | Caroline Fiss Photography for ICEX/Trade Commission of Spain New York

 

Caroline Fiss Photography for ICEX/Trade Commission of Spain New York
@icex/ Copyright ICEX / Depto. Multimedia
The Harris family | Photo courtesy of La Tienda
@icex/ Copyright ICEX / Depto. Multimedia;
Christie DuFault, Culinary Institute of America | Caroline Fiss Photography for ICEX/Trade Commission of Spain New York;
Caroline Fiss Photography for ICEX/Trade Commission of Spain New York;
Jeffrey Shaw and Chef Nicholas Lopez | Caroline Fiss Photography for ICEX/Trade Commission of Spain New York

2022 Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos,
DO Campo de Borja
($20)

100% Garnacha. Shows classic varietal character with blueberry flavors, married with subtle hints of oak. Sourced from
35- to 60-year-old vines on the slopes of Moncayo Mountain.

Valdespino Fino Inocente,
D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
($25)

100% Palomino from the renowned Macharnudo vineyard. Salted almonds, olives with hints of dried apple, citrus and toast.
Pair with jamón, anchovies and cured cheeses.

2017 Parés Balta Blanca Cusiné,
DO Cava de Guarda Superior Gran Reserva ($60)

A Xarel·lo, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend from a biodynamic estate. Eighty months of ageing provides notes of toasted brioche, fruit compote and an elegant, creamy texture.

More Information

Visit Website